Saturday, March 11, 2006

Compass Cay, Exuma Islands

Sometimes we aren't the sharpest tools in the shed. Two days ago while we were in Warderick Wells we tried going snorkeling in 20 knots of wind. The snorkeling site was about a mile away by dinghy and the waves had built up to a good chop (2-3 feet, really close together). We got soaked just on the dinghy ride over there. With the wind and waves, trying to anchor the dinghy in 15 feet of water would've been tough. About every third wave had a nice frost of whitecap, so there was no way we were getting in the water to try to look at some fish, it was just too rough. So you'd think we'd learn. But today guess what, even though the anemometer (fancy word for wind speedometer) registered 22 knots of wind, we climbed in the dinghy anyway to try to explore the caves over at the Rocky Dundas.

Funny thing about the 2 islands that make up the Rocky Dundas, they are basically massive limestone rock islands with sheer cliffs dropping vertically to the water's edge. All around the island there is a slight overhang where the cliffs meet the water, and it is under this ledge that you can find the caves. You have just enough room (4 ft) to sneak under the ledge at low tide. Once past the ledge you can get inside the larger space of the caves, some of them are even lit by the sun through "skylights" (holes in the rock above going all the way down through the island). Let me tell you, they looked really awesome as we approached in the dinghy. It sure looked like there would be some amazing snorkeling back there. Of course, it also looked like a great way to get killed or severely maimed since the wind was pushing the waves right up into the caves. Surf was pounding everywhere with each crash. We just looked at each other, shook our heads, and Kevin turned the dinghy around without a word.

So instead we settled for the tamer waters in our protected anchorage back on the other island, Chicken Cay (the significance of the name was not lost on us). Our anchorage there was surrounded on three sides including the direction the wind was coming from so there weren't any waves to speak of. There were several cool reefs to explore, teeming with schools of fish in day-glo colors. I just enjoyed floating above the cities of coral but Kevin, who was on the prowl for spiny lobster or conch since we are now just outside the boundary of Exuma Park, was disappointed to come back empty-handed. Secretly I was kind of relieved since both conch and lobster are overfished here, and even though it is legal for us to take them I feel bad. It doesn't stop me from eating lobster and conch fritters at restaurants but somehow when I see it in its natural habitat it feels like maybe I should just live and let live. Great, now I have the Wings song "Live and Let Die" running through my head (or Guns N' Roses depending on which generation you belong to).

Where we are (we moved less than a mile over to Compass Cay for better wind protection):
Lat: N 24 16.750'
Long: W 76 32.598'

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